Words: Rich Norman
It’s not so easy to define what Clone Correct means nowadays.
In the past it entailed slavish cloning of military builds, and it was all mapped out:
Then shit got complicated, with a multiplicity options:
Then it went a bit nuts:
Then, unit and personal purchases became more and more common. This resulted in pockets of blasters in the wild, that looked more like those from a civilian professional shooting contest.
In the blog, I coined the term “MilCiv” to describe this phenomenon.
In fairness, that look has been reigned in more recently, simply because Block II gear is now fully rolled out. Now that even the biggest SOF elements are fully equipped with all the new toys, they don’t need to fiddle around the edges so much with unit or personal purchases.
Ask the question “What is Clone Correct?” nowadays and some builders will point to a Block II diagram – or similar – which they’ve found on the web. It may not even be from an official source.
This one, for instance, isn’t official:
The fact is, in the wild, there is no single archetype unless you are going retro.
Many people get around this by cloning a single photo from the wild. That’s equally as valid as showing the boldness to absorb multiple in the wild references and designing your own iteration.
The latter technique has really gained credibility amongst expert cloners, as demonstrated here by Tan Rifle, talking about his CAG-inspired HK416D:
From my reference materials and resources, here’s a breakdown of what the weapon consists of parts wise, in the wild.
- Stock: LMT SOPMOD (tan), MagPul CTR (FDE), or MagPul STR (FDE).
- Buffer Group: HK mil-spec receiver extension (tan anodized) with HK416 buffer and spring.
- Lower Receiver: Factory HK416D lower receiver (tan anodized) with standard lower parts.
- Grip: HK v4 (RAL8000), Hogue, Ergo, Sierra Precision, MagPul (various).
- FCG: Geissele HK416 SF or non released Geissele HK416 SF.
- Upper Receiver: Factory HK416D OTB upper receiver (tan anodized) with 416 BCG and polymer ejection port cover (RAL8000).
- Charging Handle: HK charging handle (tan anodized) and Geissele Airborne CH (DDC).
- Barrel: Factory HK416 10.4″ lightweight profile barrel with 10″ gas block and piston assembly.
- Rail: Geissele HK 10″ SMR rev. A (sand) and Geissele HK 10″ SMR rev. B (DDC).
- Muzzle Device: SureFire FH556-212A and SureFire SFCT FH556.
- Suppressor: SureFire FA212 (FDE) or SureFire SOCOM 556RC (FDE).
- Optics: EOTech XPS3-0 (FDE), EOTech G33 (tan anodized/FDE), Aimpoint T1/2, Vortex Razor HD II 1-6x24mm.
- Risers: Wilcox .410″ set screw riser (FDE) and LaRue LT101.
- Mounts: Wilcox EOTech FTS (FDE), Daniel Defense, LaRue (various), Geissele SOPMOD Razor HD II (DDC/black), Badger Recon Mount.
- Lights: SureFire M600C (tan), SureFire M600U (tan), SureFire M600V (tan).
- Laser: L3/Insight LA5 (tan).
- BUIS: KAC 600m rear/standard front, KAC 600m micro rear/micro front.
The idea is to compile a framework – a guide, not a hard and fast ruleset – and a list of options, spurred by careful analysis of all the reference pics and resources available.
The framework’s job is to assist the blending of options, the outcome being a coherent clone where the whole is more than just the sum of its parts.
I asked, “What is Clone Correct?” of a cloner who shall remain anonymous, but who also serves in the military. I think it’s a good place to end:
I add stuff to my gun. I buy it myself. I install it myself. Nothing major, since I need to be able to remove all the stuff, too. But sights, lights etc. – accessories are good to go.
That’s why I think a gun with milspec items is just as “MIL” as the one with issued items.
I’m always trying to improve my gear, since it means survival.